Ambassadeur Everlasting
Come rain or shine
The hill-station of Kodaikanal is centred on a star-shaped lake, and it doesn't matter whether there is rain, sun or mist, families and honeymooners take to the lake in boats. A walk around the lake takes a good hour.
Hiking in Kodai
You wouldn't immediately think of hiking in Tamil Nadu, but in the area surrounding Kodaikanal that's exactly what to do. Kodai town rambles up and down the hillsides with patches of shola forest, unique to South India's Western Ghats. Leave the town and the cool air and stunning viewpoints await. Avoid weekends and the summer months and the hiking trails are empty, except for a few sheep.
First light in...Koda
Leaving the dust and heat of the plains and temple life for the refreshingly sharp pinch of a Kodaikanal night or morning is a treat in itself. This misty hill station, 120km northwest of Madurai in the protected Palani Hills, is much more relaxed and intimate than its big sister Ooty. Kodai as it is affectionately called is the ‘Princess of Hill Stations’. Dawn from our hotel balcony.
Nandi and the two...B
Nandi (Shiva’s sacred bull), sits in one of the several shrines that are dotted around the extensive areas of the walled temple compound, listening to the conversation of the two Brahmins. PS Probably the last upload for a week, off to our house in Kent today for Easter. Vrolijk Pasen iedereen!
A moment of meditatio
In one of the small niches surrounded by ancient script carved on the walls he finds his peace in his morning meditation. I don't normally like taking photos like this or of people sleeping, but I couldn't resist, just as I clicked his mobile phone went off in his shirt pocket. I jumped, he jumped the moment was over for us both.
Pretty as a picture
With white jasmines and a red rose in her dark hair to match with her white and red dress, and with a glitter bindhi placed on her forehead, her eyebrows thinly pencilled, she looked as "pretty as a picture" how could I resist a portrait.
The Londoners
Continuing with the people we met in Thanjavur, was this young couple from London, being both from London ourselves we struck up a conversation, where exactly did they live, what did they do? We felt the role was reversed, normally its Indians asking us, where are you coming from? what is you professions? do you have issue? (children). He was an IT specialist and she worked in the financial sector in the City. They lived in Forest Gate and spoke with a London ascent broader than mine:).They had travelled to Tamil Nadu (where they were both originally from) for their marriage, a grand three day affair. This was the last afternoon and time for the wedding photo shoot at the temple. I thought the tones of their mauve outfits blended so well with the hues of the temple.
Eight smiling eyes
Eight smiling eyes and four smiling faces. Four young girls making a visiting the temple with their families, dressed prominently in red the colour of a pilgrim.
The three graces
Just before we leave Thanjavur a short series featuring people we met at the temple. Here three sisters travelling around Tamil temple towns both their parents had recently died and their pilgrimage was in their honour. You can clearly see the effects of the turmeric water on their faces.
Three gentlemen and..
I just saw advertised a groepsreis to south India stopping enroute from A to B at Thanjuvar for a hour or so. Sure in a hour you will see the main temple, admire the huge Nandi bull, and look in awe at the entrance gopurum. But Thanjuvar and its amazing temple is worth so much more than an hour, as I've said the light plays with the temple carvings at different times of the day. Sometimes you don't see the carvings and sometimes they jump out at you. We stayed in the Parisutham hotel, which I can recommend.
Huge steps for little
The steps of the Brihadishwara Temple seem huge for her small legs but she makes giants steps lifting her dress high. When you come to Thanjavur, come here twice: in the morning, when the honey-hued granite begins to assert its dominance over the whiteness of the morning, and in the evening, when the rocks capture a palette of reds, oranges, yellows and pinks on the crowning glory of Chola temple architecture. Anytime of day the temple is brimming with people and there will always be something special to observe.
Whatever it takes
Devotees will do whatever it takes to reach the blessed water of coconut milk and turmeric, even while wearing a beautiful silk sari she is not deterred from climbing the temples walls. You can also see here some of the fine carvings of this crowning glory of Chola temple architecture.
Coconut milk and...tu
I mentioned in my last post that during the puja the lingam is blessed with coconut milk and turmeric. For the devotees who could not cram themselves inside the inner sanctum, (which is mostly crowded), for the priests blessing there is always the opportunity to anoint themselves, and their friends with the holy liquid as it rushes into the outside tank.
Morning Puja
The morning puja in the inner sanctum includes (the Brahmins)bathing the 4m-high Shiva lingam with coconut milk and turmeric. Its a very pious and devout affair, but as you can see by the faces of these young girls exiting the central shrine that it is a happy and relaxed occurrence.
Shiva and the brahmin
A quiet moment away from the pilgrims for one of the presiding Brahmins of Brihadeeswarar Temple. Many graceful deity images stand in niches around the temple's lower outer levels, including Shiva as Nataraja, the cosmic dancer Between the deity images are panels showing classical dance poses. The temple area is so vast you can always find a quiet place to rest and absorb the atmosphere.
Lord Ganesh
Ganesh the elephant headed son of Shiva, the god of knowledge and wisdom, and his priest stand by the entry to the inner sanctum in the Brihadeeswarar Temple.
Red and Yellow
Devotees dressed in their traditional red and yellow saris entering the inner sanctum of Brihadeeswarar Temple. As foreigners we are allowed to enter the sanctum unto a certain point, but no photographs. In the inner sanctum Shiva, there is another sanctum in the inner sanctum where only priest may enter there the linga sits.
The cherry on the cak
Every day thousands of people worship at the Brihadishwara Temple. Come here twice: in the morning, when the honey-hued granite begins to assert its dominance over the white dawn sunshine, and in the evening, when the rocks capture a hot palette of reds, oranges, yellows and pinks on the crowning glory of Chola temple architecture. The World Heritage–listed Brihadishwara Temple was built between 1003 and 1010. The vimanam (temple tower) is 60 m high and is one of the tallest in the world. The Kumbam (the bulbous structure on the top, the cherry on the cake) weighs around 80 tons and was put in place by erected a ramp 9kms long to roll in along!
Dance of joy
Dancing for joy at having arrived and entered the Brihadeeswara Temple, also known as the Big Temple. It is one of the most important and largest temples in India and is an example of Dravidian architecture during the Chola period. The templeis over 1000 years old. I am going to take you around the temple, show you some details, watch some special ceremonies and rituals, meet a few people and enjoy some quiet moments.
WoW
Wow, was exactly my reaction as I entered through the main gate at the Brihadeeswara Temple. These women pilgrims, we can see by their red saris, are stopped in the tracks by the emotion of arriving at one of the most important temples in India. They were not sure whether to sing, pray or dance. Eventually they did all three.
The streets of...Than
We are getting close to the main temple in Thanjavur now. This couple from Gujarat look as out of place here in Tamil Nadu as we do. Although Thanjavur is very much on the map as a place of interest I was pleasantly surprised as to how quiet (foreign tourists) is was. We saw a couple of groups arrive and leave within less than an hour. Two days we savoured the hypnotic atmosphere of the Brihadeeswara Temple. You may say that seems over the top, but when you think that the temple is the center of daily life, not only for worship, but a meeting place, gathering news, gossiping. Its a place to see people as well as the beauty of the temple by sunrise and by sunset. (and the heat of the day was spent at around the pool in our hotel)
The streets of...Than
Siddha Medicine is a traditional medicine originating in ancient Tamilakam in South India. Siddha science is very similar to Ayurveda. Siddha medicine recognizes seven psychological and physiological functions of the body that are to be kept in balance for good health. Most of the practicing Siddha medical practitioners are traditionally trained, usually in families and by gurus (teachers). A practitioner will make a diagnosis after a patient's visit and refer to their manuscripts for the appropriate remedies, which a physician compounds by himself or herself, from thousands of herbal and herbo-mineral resources.
The streets of...Than
Parrot fortune-telling is a type of astrology popular among Tamils. It involves using green parakeets which are trained to pick up Tarot cards. A parrot astrologer/fortune teller typically sit by the side of the road where people congregate in numbers. He has a cage which contains one or two trained parrots. The tarot cards are either spread out or stacked in front of him. They are 27 in number representing the Indian cosmic system. Each card contains the image of a Hindu deity. When a patron sits before the fortune teller, he opens the cage and lets the parrot out. He instructs the parrot to pick a card. The parrot walks over to the cards, picks one from the stack or the spread with its beak and gives it to the astrologer, he then walks back to its cage. The astrologer opens the card and based on the image tells the fortune of the patron.
The streets of...Than
We arrive, again by car, in Thanjavur, as it will be my birthday tomorrow we decide to take a so-called up-market hotel, with swimming pool. Thanjavur is an important center of South Indian religion, art, and architecture. Most of the Great Living Chola Temples, which are UNESCO World Heritage Monuments, are located in and around Thanjavur. The most important being the Brihadeeswara Temple, which is located in the centre of the city not far from our hotel. We decide not to rush out but to relax, swim and then as the light is getting nice walk to the temple taking some street photos along the way.
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